Mill City Rock Gym
A hand-built gym that captures climbing's true spirit.

Across the Universe

DESCRIPTION: Across the Universe is a good route to do when you're sick of the crowds at North Conway or Rumney, or when you just want a quality route. It has some of everything – the first pitch is a bit spooky, the second pitch crux is very devious, and the last pitch is sustained and exhilarating.

The first pitch is a wake-up call. You could find yourself on thin footholds, 50 feet up with no pro, mentally struggling to not grab the first bolt before you clip in. You may save yourself some stress if you bring a tricam (size unknown, try medium) for an obvious solution pocket you will pass on the easy ground before the bolt. I haven't tried it yet, but it might work for you. Also, it's a good idea to have a wired nut clipped to a runner and ready to cinch around the last bolt, which has no hanger.

Now comes the fun part. I have heard from several strong climbers that the crux overlap on the second pitch, rated 5.10a, is "quite difficult for the grade." Luckily, it's also quite cheatable for the grade. If you get too frustrated, just toss your ethics and pull on that bolt. Interestingly, Mill City Rock Gym owner Mark Sousa says that if you take the time to figure it out, the move really does feel like 5.10a.

Two forgettable, runout, but easy pitches lead you to the famous Milky Way Pitch, featuring 5.9 friction hundreds of feet above Route 302. This was definitely my favorite pitch on the climb, as good as anything I've done on Whitehorse. Just put your feet on your chalk marks and hope for the best, and, with a little faith, that's what you'll get.

Erik Zygmont
October 2006

:: Rock Climbs ::  

Across the Universe 5.10a
Salt Packed Pig Sack 5.8